Sunday, April 29, 2012

A Little Edumication

I apologize for the lack of blogging in past months, due to work, writer's block, lack of motivation, taxes, my newfound addiction to old episodes of "21 Jump Street"...  I shall try my damnedest to be a better blogger for you, and some recent turn of events will hopefully fuel that motivation - but more on that in the future.  Sooooo...in mid-April I made a trip out to Point Reyes Station for the first bi-annual Mollie Stone's Cheese Managers' meeting.  For those of you who don't know where Point Reyes is, it is here, tucked away between the lush forests and breezy coastline of West Marin.  The most direct way to get there is to take Sir Francis Drake Blvd from Highway 101, and what starts out as a main thoroughfare, turns into a two-lane road weaving its way around the hills of Marin County.  The morning was cool but sunny, the leftover fog hanging over the trees before burning off with the warming temperature - a perfect day for cheese tasting!

Everyone met at the Cowgirl Creamery in the center of town, which also includes a quaint cheese shop and cafe.  This was the first time all the Cheese Managers were together, so it was really nice to finally meet all the Cheese Ladies of Mollie Stone's.  We were here to learn about the cheeses and history of the Cowgirl Creamery, as well as the Marin French Cheese Company, Laura Chenel's Chevre and Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company - all lovely and local!  Now, each presentation was chock full of information to accompany the delicious tastings - so much that I will try to stick to the most intriguing facts.  If you'd like me to elaborate, send me an email or come into Mollie's and have a chat with me...I don't bite.

Cowgirl Creamery

The Cowgirl Creamery opened in 1997 by Peggy Smith and Sue Conley in Point Reyes Station.  To this day they still use organic milk from Straus Family Creamery to make their signature Mt. Tam and Red Hawk.  The Mt. Tam is modeled after St. Andre, but because the cheesemaker brought in to help with the development of the cheese was from the Netherlands, he wanted to create a gouda.  The result - a silky, bloomy rind triple cream with a firm center, made using the gouda method.


Their Red Hawk was a happy mistake.  One day, Sue had a batch of Mt. Tam where the mold (candidum) was not developing properly, so she reinoculated it by spraying the cheese with the mold culture.  Still, the mold was not doing what it was supposed to be doing.  Instead, it was taking on a pinkish hue.  She would later discover that this pinkness was created by B. linens, a bacteria strain special to the Point Reyes air.  Thus, the pungent, washed rind meatiness of the Red Hawk was born!

Clockwise from the cup of Cowgirl Creamery Creme Fraiche,
Cottage Cheese,  Mt. Tam,  and
Rustic Bakery Olive Oil & Sel Gris Flatbreads
covering up the St. Pat's and Red Hawk...oops.

Marin French Cheese Company

The Marin French Cheese Company was founded in 1865 by Jefferson Thompson, a native of Illinois who came out West to find some gold in them thare hills.  Well, when the Gold Rush hype died out (along with the gold), Thompson settled down in West Marin and started a dairy, creating fresh cheese to be shipped down to the saloons in San Francisco.  This cheese would later be known as their Breakfast Cheese, a soft, un-aged cow's milk cheese made with brie culture.  As demand increased, and to help support neighboring dairies, they purchased milk instead of milking their own heard, and completely focused their company on cheesemaking.  Now they have a variety of handmade cheeses, from the bloomy Brie & Camembert to the intensely pungent (and frankly, bacony tasting) Schloss.

Clockwise from bottom: Breakfast Cheese, Petit Dejeuner,
Brie, Triple Creme Brie,  Petit Creme,
Yellowbuck Camembert, Petit Bleu and Schloss in the middle. 

Laura Chenel

Laura Chenel's Chevre began in Sebastopol with a herd of goats and extra milk to make cheese with.  After traveling to France to learn their technique of goat cheesing, Laura came back to share her knowledge with the States - a fresh, creamy, tangy, well-balanced chevre.  Unlike many cheesemakers who sell in the retail market, Laura Chenel's Chevre made its name through caterers and restaurants - most notably, Chez Panisse.  In 2006, the company sold to the Rians Group, a French cheese corporation that controls a number of artisan dairies.  Many felt this transaction would negatively affect the quality of the chevre, but I have to say, in this recent tasting the quality is truly far from lacking...and I'm not a goat cheese fan.  In addition to the milk from the original herd, milk from local goat dairies (with the exception of two in Nevada) is also used.  This has certainly increased production, but has also made way for a couple aged cheeses - the Melodie and Tome.

Clockwise from top left: Plain Chevre, 4 Peppercorn Chevre,
Melodie and Tome.

Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company

The Giacomini Family had been selling the milk from their closed Holstein cow herd in 1959.  It wasn't until 2000 that Point Reyes Original Blue was created.  The idea was to make a cheese that none of their neighbors were making, and so became the raw, punchy blue that goes from udder to cheese vat within 12 hours.  Interestingly enough, this blue is not just organic, but also gluten free.  Typically, traditional blues are made with mold grown from wheat.  But with the magic of modern technology, penicilium roqueforti can be manufactured without the use stale bread.  In 2010, Original Blue got a sister - Point Reyes Toma, a semi-hard, buttery, slightly grassy cheese made in a gouda style.  This table cheese was meant to satisfy those non-blue fans, and it certainly did its job!


Toma on top and Blue on the bottom.







Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Fancy Food Show!

This morning the Store Manager gave me a nice surprise and let me play hooky to go visit the Fancy Food Show at the Moscone Center in San Francisco. So much cheese, so many sweets! What fun! Here are some pics of my adventure...it's only a fraction of what was there.


















Monday, January 16, 2012

Cheese N' Sweet of the Week: Highway 1 and Athena's Silverland Desserts Sugar Free Double Chocolate Brownie

I just recently acquired a new local cheese named Highway 1, made by Valley Ford Cheese Company in Valley Ford, CA located off of...Highway 1.  My sales rep had described it as a Fontinella style cheese, but modeled after the Tomme De Savoie, and to some degree she was right.  It comes in a dusty brown six-pound wheel, so it looks like a large Tomme, but I have to say, the flavor and texture is far from a Fontinella...but consider that a good thing.  My exposure to most Fontals, Fontinas, Fontinellas, etc. has been mostly bland and uneventful, unless we're talking about the Val D'aosta, which is phenomenal...but I digress.  Highway 1 is a raw cow's milk cheese from Valley Ford's Jersey herd.  Aged for a minimum of 80 days, its paste is pale yellow dotted with small eyes.  It smells of butter and earth, with a dense, creamy mouthfeel.  The initial taste is sharp and tangy, mouthwatering with a bit of nuttiness and not too salty.  The flavor then morphs to a sort of artichoke/asparagus finish.  This is a fantastic table cheese - not only is the color contrast appealing to the eye, but the flavor is most definitely pleasing to the palate!

Highway 1 - Valley Ford Cheese Company, Valley Ford, CA


One day, Bernie, our resident Bakery Manager here at Mollie Stone's Sausalito, asked me to taste a brownie.  Now, ordinarily when asked to taste a brownie, I'm more than happy to oblige.  However, Bernie had a questionable look on her face, and when a co-worker asks me to taste something with a questionable look on their face, it's usually to confirm  that the particular foodstuff has gone the way of the Dodo.  Nonetheless, I tried the brownie...and was confused.  It tasted like a brownie - a very delicious fudgy brownie.  But the look on Bernie's face remained the same.

"What do you think?" she asked.

"It's good - it tastes like a brownie.  Why?"

"It's sugar free."

Ahhh...and now I knew.  Typically sugar free food tastes sugar free, thanks to a chemically film left behind in your mouth.  But this was not so - not with this brownie, which Bernie was glad I confirmed because she was hoping to use these brownies as a substitute for the real sugar brownies she was out of for a catering order.  Anyway, the brownie she bestowed upon me was Athena's Silverland Desserts Sugar Free Double Chocolate Brownie...whew.  It's dense and fudgy with melt in your mouth dark chocolatiness.  And the teeny tiny chocolate chips on top add a nice contrasting texture.  But the amazing element about this brownie is its freedom from sugar, yet the ability to taste full of sugar.  The secret is Maltitol, a sugar alcohol that has nearly the same sweetness and chemical properties of sucrose, but fewer calories and a lesser effect on blood glucose.  However, like most sugar substitutes, if consumed in larger quantities it will give you the runs.  But don't let that stop you from enjoying this truly decadent treat, just don't eat an entire case.

Athena's Silverland Desserts Sugar Free Double Chocolate Brownie, Forest Park, IL